Lace.



PATENTED MAY 21, 19o?.

T. ANDERSON.

LAGE.

ArPLroAnoN Hman JAN. 2s, 1905.

4 SHEETS-SHEET 1.

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Nofa'smlg. PATBNTED MAY 21, 19o.

` T. ANDERSON.

LAGE.

APPLIOATION FILED JAH. 2s, 1905.

4 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

PATENTED MAY 2l, 1907.

NGL 854,619.

T. ANDERSON'.

LAGE. APPLIoATIon FILED JAN. ze. 1905.

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Y. PATENTBDVMAY 21, 19o?. T. ANDERSON.

LAGE. APPLIGATION Hmm un. ze, 1905.

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'- lNo. 854,619.

` *UNITE-n STATES PATENT OFFICE. v'rnoinis ANDER-senior GLASGOW, SCOTLAND. i

. V l' i Specification of Letters Patenti l Patented Hay 21, 1907.

Application filed January 26,1905. -Serial No. 242,758.

.To a/ZZ whom4 it 'may cbncern.- n

Be it known that I, THOMAS ANDERSON', a subject of the King of Great Britain, anda resident of the city of Glasgow,'in the county of Lanark, Scotland, have invented new and useful Improvements in Lace, of which the,

following is a specification. l

lhis invention relates lto an' improved twist lace fabric made on a curtain lace ma.-

chine and has for its object to produce a lace Afabric having a warp and two spool threads andy a bobbin thread to eachpillar and cross net, combination and vSwiss effects, at desired parts of the fabric and which mayalso have, if desired, muslin effects, clothing'or patterning and openwork effec-ts, or one or more of such additional effects.

In the accompanying draWings:-Figure 1 is a 'diagram of a piece lof lace showing cross net,- Swiss and combination effects.`

Fig. 2 is a sectional elevation, Ypartly diagrammatic, of a curtain lace machine on which the fabric may beproduced. Fig. 3 is an elevation of the cam used for actuating the trick bar. Figs. 4,5 and 6 are elevations of the cams used for actuating the tread guide 3 and these latter with the lace.

bars on a machine'for making the improved Fig. 7 is-a part front elevationof a curtain lace machine. Fig.` 8 Iis' adia ram illustrating the movementsv of the piclkers. Fig. 9 is a diagram'illustrating a piece oflace embodying my'invention and having eHects in addition to those shown in Fig.' 1.

In a lace made according to this invention each of the pillars or vertical bars b of the fabric consists of the warp thread 12, a thick or coarse spool thread 10, a thin or fine spool thread 11 and a bobbin thread 1 which binds these threads'together. There is one setl of warp and'spool threads to each Abobbin thread and they are arranged in the machine as follows: Thebobbin threads 1 are carried by bobbins2 which vcan revolve in carriages bobbins are moved by catch bars 6 from the position A shown in the back combs or guides 4 to a corresponding position in the front combs 5 and back again to the back combs.- Below the combs there are the thread-guide bars 7, 8 and 9, each of, which has one Warp or spool thread vto each bobbin'thread-and each group of threads forms a pillar. For making the improved lace herein referred to, the bar 9 is threaded with thick spool threads 10, the bar 8 with fine spool threads 11, and the bar 7 with warp threads 12, these latter being carriedQby abeam 1 3 While the spool threads are carried by the spools 14.

Under the combs there is also the trick bar .'15, which forms guidesfor the upper ends' of the jacks or pickers 16, and at each half motion of the machine is moved, by the camfJ shown in Fig. 3 and a spring, to the right and left alternately a distance equal to the d'istance betweenthe centers of two adjacent bobbins and known technically as a f gait. There is a separate jack' each bobbin and-carriage. and they are oarried by a bar 17 which is oscillated at each half'rnotion by acam 18, the amount of moor picker 16 to tion given by the cam being sucient to I v move the pickers from the position 19 to the position 20, Fig. 8. Each picker is connected by two strings 21 to two jacquards 22 and 23, from which all the selective positions of the hooks'engages with the liftin knife thenthe whole Or a .portionof theslac p is taken up and the jack is held stationary or prevented from moving its full -distance and it takes the position 19, 23, or 24, according to the particular hook which'engages with the lifting knife. y

take up the twists at each half motion of the machine, and the work made is wound upon a roller 27.

Previous to this `invention curtain lace fabrics had been made with' three warp orspool threads to each pillar and such fabrics had cross net, combination, openwork and patterning effects.

SWiss,-combination, openwork ands patterning eHectshad been made, but according to this invention a lace fabric with three warp or s'pool'threads has all the effects that have hitherto required vfour Warp or spool threads ,to produce. In all such curtain lace fabrics made upon twist lace machines of which I have knowledge it was considered'necessary to carry one `of the threads of each illar usually the warp thread-straight t ough the fabric, its only function being togive body to the pillar.- In my improved fabric,

of the strings The machine is also -provided with point bars 25 and 26 which 9o With four warp or spool threads to each pillar fabrics with cross net,

IOO

IIO

' however, I utilize each ofthe three threads of jacks are obtained, it being more convenient to employ two jacquards than one. When a pillar, includin the warp thread, for producing the desire effects in the fabric, carrying one, or another, or two of them across from its pillar as. may be desired ,-and I rovide means for deflecting all these threa s at each motion of the machine, as well as means for'maintaining any one or combination of them, in its own illar. l

The thread guidebars 7, 8 and 9 are connected at one end of the machine to levers 28,

. which are actuated by cams 29, s rings at the other end of the bars holding t e levers in contact with-the cams. Each thread guide bar therefore makes a cycle of movements and the pickers can be moved to certain definite positions. By the combined movements of the bars and pickers certain effects are produced and the designer by arranging that these effects are roduced in different arts ments of the threads a gait means the distancebetween any twoadjaceht pillars and the centers of two adjacent bobbins and carriages, while rise and fall means a horizontal movement of the bars relatively to one end of the machine. The bar 9 with the thick spool threads 10, rises two gaits afterward on the front half motion of the machine and falls three gaits before the jacks enter the threads and one gait afterward on the back gait.

half motion of the machine, these motions being obtained b each half revolution of the cam, Fig. 4, whi'cli revolves in the direction of the arrow, while the distance between each of the dott'ed lines represents a motion of one The bar 8 with thethin spool thread 1 1 rises two gaits before the pickers enter the threads and falls one ait afterward on the front half motion of ti one gait after the jacks have entered the threads on the back half motionl of the machine. These motions of the bar 8 are obtained b each half revolution of the Can, Fig. 5, w Ich revolves in the direction of the arrow, and the Aspace betweenjthe dotted lines re resents a motion of one-gait. The bar 7 with the warp' thread 12 rises one gait after the jacks have entered the threads on the front half motion of the machine, and falls two gaits before the "acks enter .the

threads and rises one gait a erward on the back half motion of'the machine, these motions of the bar being obtained by each half revolution of the cam, Fig. 6, which revolves y in the direction of the arrow, while the dotted Referring articularly to 'Fi s.- 1 and v9,

wherein are ustrated pieces o lace fabric e machine, and fallsI embodying my, present invention, the crosses sult the jacks move to the position '20 or to the position 23 for any two consecutive half motlons of the machine, and at the next and every succeeding cross the war and thin spool threads are moved to comblne with the t reads of their own pillars. cross is commenced on a front half motion the long crossingthread is inclined toward When the the right, as shown at c, but when commenced on a back half motion the long crossing thread is inclined towardthe left, as sh-own at a. The Swiss effect shown at e is produced by causing the thin spool thread 11 to move from its own pillar and combine with an adjacent I machine, an to return to its own pillar on the next half motion of the .-machine, the jacks moving to the position 24,.Fig8, on the front half motion and to the position 23 on the back half motion. The combination effects shown at f are obtained by joining toether the threads of ltwo adjacent pillars to orm a combination pillar, the jacks entering the threads to the position 24, Fig. 8, on the front motion, and .to the 'position 2() on the back motion of the machine. The threads of the two pillars are held together. by the bobbin thread 1 of one pillar twisting with the-threads -of its own pillar and the warp thread' of the combining pillar while the bobbin.y thread of the combinin pillar twists withythe threads of its own pi lar only. The combination pillars may be of any length and at any tlme may' be divided into two ordinary pillars, or one` ordinary pillar from y. one combination pillar can be joined to one ordina pillar from an adjacent combination pil ar to form another combination pillar, as shown in the drawings. In addition to the cross net, Swiss and combination ef fects, which. have never been made previous to this invention ina curtain lace fabric hav- .ing only three threads, as two spool and onev (pillar on one half motion of the roo' IOS

war thread to each pillar, the lace may have clot ing or patterningeliects, muslin effects, and openwork eects, .as `represented 1n lothing or patterning, indicated at 7c in Fig. 9, is lmade as usual om thethick spooll thread 1() and the pickers. are held clear of all the threads in the position 19 on both mo- 'tions of the machine. j thread from a, pillar, say No. 1, passes over pillars No.2 4and No. 3 and combines with illar No. 4 on'one half motion, and return to izo For this work the 1 lts own pillar on the next half motion. Muslin n effect, represented at 7L Fig. 9, is also produced i from the thickspo'ol thread, the pickers mov ing to the position 23, Fig. 8, on. the front motion and to the position 24 on the backV motion. The muslin effect is produced by causing the thick spool thread to combine with an adjacent pillar on one half motion and return toits own pillar on the next half motion of the machine.- Muslin effect is therefore similar to Swiss effectin construction, but is toothick to produce a shading eect. Openwork effect, indicated at Z Fig. 9, is produced by causing a bobbin thread to twist roundA the threads of its ownpillar a greater number of times than is usually done between two meshes and is obtained by moving the jacks to the position 23 on both motions of the machine. All the eHects herein described may be produced simultaneously -in different parts of the same fabric, and any y as effect can be changed to any other eHect at any time.

What I claim is 1. A twist lace fabric made upon a curtain lace machine, in which are produced several different effects, the fabric comprising'a series of pillars, each formed of three longitudinal threads and a bobbin threadfor bind- 'ing these together, at least one of the longitudinal threads differing from' the others in size, the longitudinal threads being caused to cross over from one pillar to the next to produce the desired effects, and each of the longitudinal threads being thus caused to cross over and be utilized in the production of the Vplesign in the lace fabric, ,substantiallyy as set ort l 2. A twist `lace fabric made upon a curtain lace machine, in whichis produced a cross net effect, the fabric comprising a series of pillars, each formed of three threadsa warp thread, a relativelythin spool thread and a relatively thick spool thread-and a bobbin thread for binding together the said three threads, the cross net eect being produced by causing the warp thread from one pillar to cross over and combine with the threads of an adjacent pillar, and the thin spool thread of suchadjacent pillar to cross over and combine with the threads of the firstmentioned pillar, substantially as set forth.

3. A twist lace fabric made upon a curtain lace machine, comprising pillars each formed of three longitudinal threads only, to wit, a-

thick spool thread, a thin spool thread and a warp threadand `a bobbin thread `for uniting the said three threadsthe fabric having in one part two adjacent pillars combined to form a combination pillar effect, and having in another part a warp thread of one pillar combined with an adjacent pillar and the thin spool thread o f such adjacent pillar combined with the first-mentioned pillar to form a cross net effect, and having in another part of the fabric. a thin spoolthread combined with an adjacent pillar and its own pillar to form Swiss effects', substantially as set forth. In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification-in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

THOMAS ANDERSON.

Witnesses:

GEORGE JoNEs, HARRY COMEEY. 

